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French kitchen essentials that last a lifetime
Enamelled cast iron from Burgundy and Alsace, the folding knife every French farmer carries, and the pepper mill found in nearly every restaurant kitchen. These are buy-once products, so the guide focuses on which size and which version to get.
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LLe Creuset
Enamelled cast iron made in Fresnoy-le-Grand since 1925. The Dutch oven is the icon, and the brand's colours are collected the way people collect handbags.
Where to start:
- 5.5-quart round Dutch oven (the all-purpose size)
- Signature skillet
- Braiser
- Stoneware mugs and ramekins
For a household of two to four, the 5.5-quart round is the right first pot. The 7.25-quart is for big batches and weighs noticeably more when full.
SStaub
Made in Alsace. Matte black enamel interior that seasons over time, self-basting lid spikes, and a slightly heavier, more professional feel than Le Creuset.
Where to start:
Choose Staub if you sear and braise a lot (the dark interior hides staining); choose Le Creuset if you want to see fond and colour while cooking.
OOpinel
The folding knife from Savoie, made since 1890 with a beechwood handle and a twist-lock collar. Also excellent, inexpensive kitchen knives.
Where to start:
- No. 08 folding knife (the classic)
- Essentials kitchen knife set
- No. 12 folding knife
- Le Petit Chef children's set
Carbon-steel blades take a sharper edge but will patina; stainless (marked 'Inox') is the low-maintenance choice for kitchens and picnics.
PPeugeot
Yes, the car company — the family made pepper mills first (1840) and still does. The case-hardened steel grinding mechanism is guaranteed for life.
Where to start:
Pepper mills and salt mills use different mechanisms; never put salt in a pepper mill. The 18 cm (7-inch) size is the most practical for a table.